2 ½poundsbeef chuckcut into 1 ½ inch cubes, patted dry
2tablespoonsgheeor olive oil
1 ½teaspoonskosher saltplus more to taste
½teaspoonblack pepperfreshly ground
For the Aromatics and Spice
1largeyellow onionchopped
4clovesgarlicminced
1tablespoonfresh gingerpeeled and minced
1tablespoonras el hanoutor the substitute blend in the notes
½teaspoonground cinnamon
1teaspoonground cumin
½teaspoonground turmeric
For the Braise and Finish
14ouncescanned chopped tomatoesone can, with juices
2 ½cupsbeef stockenough to come just below the top of the meat
1poundsweet potatoespeeled and cut in ½ inch dice
1poundsweet potatoespeeled and cut in 1 inch cubes
½preserved lemonrind only, rinsed and finely chopped, or the zest of 1 lemon plus 1 teaspoon juice
1cupfrozen peas
⅓cupcilantrochopped, to serve
½cupplain yogurtto serve
Instructions
Brown the Beef and Bloom the Spice
Pat the beef cubes very dry and season with the salt and pepper. Heat the ghee in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat and brown the beef hard in 3 batches, about 4 minutes each. Do not crowd the pan or the meat will steam. Set the beef aside.
Lower the heat, add the onion, and cook 6 to 8 minutes until soft and golden at the edges. Add the garlic and ginger and cook 1 minute more.
Stir in the ras el hanout, cinnamon, cumin and turmeric and cook 45 seconds in the fat until fragrant. Blooming the spice in fat rather than liquid is what keeps it from tasting dusty.
Braise
Return the beef and any collected juices, add the tomatoes and beef stock, and bring to a bare simmer. The liquid should sit just below the top of the meat, not cover it.
Cover and cook at a slow simmer for 90 minutes, on low heat or in a 325F oven, until the beef is beginning to give.
Add the Sweet Potato in Two Stages
Stir in the ½ inch diced sweet potato, cover, and cook 15 minutes. These pieces are meant to break down and thicken the sauce.
Add the 1 inch cubes, cover, and cook another 25 to 30 minutes, until they are tender but still hold their shape and the small dice has dissolved into the sauce.
Stir in the chopped preserved lemon rind and the peas and cook 5 minutes more. Taste for salt, keeping in mind the preserved lemon is salty.
Serve in bowls, scattered with chopped cilantro, with a spoonful of cold plain yogurt on top and bread or couscous alongside.
Notes
Two sizes of sweet potato: the small dice dissolves and thickens the sauce, the large cubes stay whole. Adding them together gives you orange paste.
Keep the liquid low: stock to just below the top of the meat, not covering it. Covered beef makes soup, not a braise.
Chuck only: lean cuts have no collagen and go stringy.
Ras el hanout substitute: 1 teaspoon each cumin and coriander, ¾ teaspoon cinnamon, ½ teaspoon each ground ginger and paprika, ¼ teaspoon each allspice and turmeric, a pinch of cloves.
Preserved lemon: half a lemon, rind only, rinsed, added at the end. A whole one overwhelms the pot.
No tagine needed: a Dutch oven with a tight lid does the same job.
Storage: better on day two, fridge 4 days, freezer 3 months. Reheat gently so the cubes stay intact.